Dashboard Skeleton

So I finally took some time off work to get the framework for the dashboard figured out and welded together. It took quite a bit of assembling, disassembling, test fitting, welding, drilling, repeat. . .

The challenge was that it was a three-dimensional puzzle: The brake pedal bracket had to match up to the cross bar (they are out-of-plane), the pedal had to be mounted such that it was comfortable to use and didn't interfere with the steering column, and the gage cluster had to be viewable. I think most of the pictures here are self-explanatory:

Dash and Pedal Framework Prototype

I laid out a prototype of the the cockpit arrangement this weekend (made of wood) to determine were the brake pedal and master cylinders would fit as well as the steering column and the instrument cluster.

I'm just going to put all my comments up top with the pictures to follow on the bottom.

The goal was to get the pedal assembly as far forward and as high as possible with out interferring. That puts the center of the brake pedal about 7.5" off the floor and leaves about 1/2" clearance above the mastercylinder (to the dash cover). There's about 1/2" clearance between the back of the pedal and the "firewall" (no fire on the other side) when all the way depressed.

I originally thought that the instrument cluster would have to be centered on the dash, but now it looks like it can be viewed located right behind the steering wheel (where you would expect it to be). In the pictures below, the steering wheel/column is an inch or two lower than it will actually be due to interference with my wood mock-up.

I still need to work out exactly how to build the steel frame, but this is the proper layout of the components such that they are useful and fit.

A few other notes for those that have not read all previous posts: The square hole in the front of the center console is where heat comes in from the heater core. The two crank handles (handles removed) just aft of the dash on center console are the controls to vent heat in or out and to raise and lower the pop-up headlights. The steering column bearing is also setting on the center console for now - it will mount on the dash frame.

New Clutch Design

The Voyager has a hydraulic clutch. The hydraulic lever/master cylinder/reservoir can not be mounted vertically on the shift lever and work - only upside down and then its very awkward and interferes. A pedal/foot clutch won't work either because the steering column is too low and it would not be safe trying to maneuver your right foot from the accelerator, under the steering column, and over to the brake. So I initially built a cable to hydraulic conversion for the clutch. I think I totally missed posting any of that. I was not happy with it - too much cable stretch and too much unnecessary friction.

So last weekend, I figured out that I could use the rear brake master cylinder, which has a remote reservoir, mounted to the (slightly modified) shift lever with a home-made linkage. Of course I had to cut the master cylinder and reservoir of the handlebar mounted clutch assemble. The shift linkage attaches to the bottom hole on the lever:

I still need to cut the push rod to length. I also have to order a new clutch handle since I modified (cut) the original when making the cable actuated design.

Here are two pictures of it installed - the second is from inside the wheel well looking aft. (the push rod goes through the forward hole)

I still need to figure out where to mount the reservoir and get a longer hose for it and a hose for the line to the clutch on the bike.

Next I need to seriously tackle designing the pedal and dash mounting.